Sydney Morning Herald: Big is beautiful
By Tom Wald, March 1, 2006

The appeal of Hawaii's Big Island ranges from beachside relaxation to watching the dramatic forces of nature in action.
There are stopovers, and then there are stopovers. Choosing Hawaii as a secondary holiday destination is a bit like skipping the main course to get to dessert - just plain indulgent.
That doesn't mean that Australians have fully realised the wonders of Hawaii's Big Island, despite a visit breaking up the long trip home from the US west coast and cutting down on jet lag.
Australians represent just 1 per cent of total tourists every year to arguably Hawaii's most fascinating island, which is packed with natural wonders.
Travelers can start the day snorkeling in warm, emerald waters with green sea turtles, and a couple of hours later make a snowman at the peak of Mauna Kea, 4205 metres above sea level.
This is an island with 10 of the world's known climate zones and it is still a work in progress. It contains the world's most active volcano and is slowly increasing in size every day.
Big Island's beauty is in its variety of activities, you can do as little or as much as you like. For resort lovers, who believe that motioning a waiter is their exercise for the day, the Kohala Coast is all you need.
It boasts the best weather in Hawaii.
But for the more adventurous or plain curious, the island must be explored and there are many reputable tour companies, such as Hawaii Forest and Trail.
Their 12-hour Kilauea volcano adventure is a long but rewarding day and includes intriguing details on local history and legends, and a visit to the world heritage- listed Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Sightings of lava flows depend on conditions, but at the time of my visit a 10-hectare area had been cordoned off as there were fears it could soon slip into the ocean. Huge plumes of steam poured out of the ocean from lava flows just below the water surface and helicopter tours guarantee the best bet for a clear sighting of the most dramatic activity.
The tour includes walking through a lava tube, where lava has just smashed its way straight through the side of a mountain to form a spectacular cave.
But it is watching the steam pouring out of the ground around former eruption points that reminds you of the power that lingers just below the surface.
If that all seems a bit full-on, but you still have an eye for the spectacular, then make sure you do their Mauna Kea summit and Stars Adventure.
Mauna Kea is the world's tallest mountain when measured from the ocean floor - although the majority of it is hidden from view below the surface - and views from the summit at sunset are extraordinary.
The tour includes hot chocolate, a hot dinner and a jacket.
It feels ridiculous to be packing a jumper when joining the tour at sea level because of the warmth of the coastline, but you need to be rugged-up some 4000 metres up.
Following the sunset, you are driven down about 1000 metres, where a telescope is unloaded and an interesting explanation of the stars is given.
But one of the best parts of all that adventure is returning to a resort such as the Fairmont Orchid.
Turtles haul themselves on the beach of the 13-hectare resort every afternoon and visitors should not miss snorkeling in the clear, warm waters of Pauoa Bay, or a dip in the 930 square metre oceanfront swimming pool. There are also lava whirlpools, 36 holes for keen golfers and 10 tennis courts.
No visit would be complete without seeing the Kohala Coast's legendary "green flash" on the horizon at sunset.
Nature is creating another island off the Big Island's south-eastern tip, but it is not expected to break the surface for another 30,000 years. So it means the Big Island remains the youngest and most interesting island of the Hawaiian chain, and a great way to break up the long flight home